From Kalahari Plains to the Smoke That Thunders

In November, I travelled on an extended educational journey through Botswana and Victoria Falls, moving from the Kalahari plains in Ghanzi through the Okavango Delta and Khwai, onward to Chobe, and finishing in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. It was a long itinerary, but one that offered valuable insight into how these regions connect and where pacing, logistics, and product choices truly matter.

I travelled partly with a colleague and later joined a group of trade partners and journalists on a hosted media trip. Experiencing the route in this way, both privately and as part of a group, highlighted the practical realities our clients will face on similar journeys.

We began in Ghanzi at Grasslands. The setting is remote and culturally focused, with a strong emphasis on San heritage and community interaction. Rhinos regularly visit the waterhole, which was a highlight, and the cultural experience itself feels authentic and meaningful. That said, expectations need to be managed carefully. While the lodge markets itself as offering fine dining, the food was simple and did not align with that positioning. Grasslands works best for guests interested in cultural depth rather than culinary refinement.

From there, we travelled on to Maun for a brief overnight stop before continuing into the Okavango Delta. Maun fulfilled its role as a transit hub efficiently, particularly for meetings and onward connections.

Our time in the Okavango Delta was spent at Gomoti River Lodge, located on the Gomoti River near the Moremi Game Reserve. The lodge is well positioned, with water in the surrounding plains for longer periods of the year, which supports sustained wildlife activity. Hippos move close to the lodge, creating intimate encounters throughout the day. Game drives in the concession were rewarding, and a visit to the Shorobe Basket Weavers added cultural context and local interaction to the experience. A mokoro excursion rounded out the stay, offering a quieter, more immersive way to engage with the Delta.

Road transfers through the Delta and Khwai regions are long and physically demanding. The terrain is extremely bumpy, and over several consecutive days this can become exhausting. This is a key planning consideration, particularly for older guests or those sensitive to rough travel conditions. Shorter stays with carefully chosen locations often deliver a better overall experience than trying to cover too much ground.

From Moremi, we continued into the Khwai Concession, staying at Saguni Safari Lodge. The lodge is beautifully positioned along the Khwai River, with wildlife moving through camp at night and strong game viewing in the concession. The mokoro experience here was a standout, including close but safe encounters with hippos. The guiding was knowledgeable and engaging, and the team handled challenging weather conditions calmly and professionally. Food quality was generally good, although breakfast offerings were limited, which may be noticeable for guests staying multiple nights.

We then flew to Kasane for an overnight stay near Chobe National Park. The afternoon boat cruise on the Chobe River delivered close sightings of hippos and crocodiles and remains a popular activity. However, the absence of drinks onboard was noticeable, particularly when compared to other Chobe operators that offer fully stocked bars.

Victoria Falls provided a dramatic and energetic finale to the journey. The town itself offers an extraordinary range of activities, from adventure sports to scenic flights, and I would strongly recommend a minimum of two nights to do it justice.

A highlight was the Zambezi dinner cruise with Wild Horizons. This experience was exceptionally well executed, with inclusive drinks, attentive service, and a relaxed top-deck lounge atmosphere at sunset. Watching elephants play along the Zambian riverbank while enjoying cocktails created a memorable sense of place. After sunset, the experience transitioned seamlessly into a fine dining service below deck.

Stays at Elephant Camp and Waterfalls Lodge showcased excellent service, strong locations, and thoughtful design. Elephant Camp, set within a wildlife sanctuary, offers exceptional sundowner experiences overlooking the gorge, while Waterfalls Lodge provides generous space, multiple pools, and a tranquil environment to unwind after busy sightseeing days.

Sustainability initiatives were visible throughout the journey. Several lodges operate primarily on solar power, with generators used only as backup during extended cloudy periods. Grasslands supports San communities directly through employment and cultural preservation, while Wild Horizons actively invests in community projects and wildlife conservation linked to its sanctuary operations.

This journey reinforced the importance of realistic pacing, honest product positioning, and first-hand experience. Botswana and Victoria Falls offer extraordinary diversity, but the most successful itineraries are those that balance distance, comfort, and depth. When designed thoughtfully, this region delivers some of the most powerful and varied travel experiences in Southern Africa.

Gomoti River Lodge - View from main deck

Nikita Swart08 July 2026